If you’ve been researching human hair extensions, you’ve probably come across the terms “single drawn” and “double drawn” hair. But what do they actually mean?
In this blog, I’ll walk you through what happens when a virgin hair ponytail is collected, how it’s sorted, and why these processes matter. Understanding the difference between raw, single, and double drawn hair will help you make an informed decision—and yes, double drawn hair extensions give the best results, and I’ll explain exactly why.
The Hair Growth Cycle: Why Hair Is Different Lengths
Human hair is constantly cycling through phases of growth, rest, and shedding. It’s completely normal to lose up to 100 hairs a day—those are the ones you find in your brush or down the plughole.
Each hair strand grows independently, meaning they’re all at different stages of the cycle. On average, the hair growth cycle lasts 2 to 7 years. If you’re someone who can grow your hair super long, you likely have a longer cycle. If your hair struggles to grow past your shoulders, you might have a shorter cycle.
Because of this constant renewal, your hair consists of many different lengths—from brand new baby hairs to long, mature strands. Hair collected for extensions is no different.
What Is Raw Hair?
Hair that’s been freshly cut from a donor is referred to as raw hair. Before it can be used in extensions, it must be washed and sorted. You’ll understand why in a moment!
For this explanation, I’ll be using virgin Russian hair as an example, but the drawing process is similar across all hair types.
Step 1: Disinfection
Yes, even the most glamorous virgin hair might have come from someone with an itchy scalp. Not all raw hair contains lice, but we wouldn’t take that chance. Disinfecting the hair is the first essential step.
Step 2: Washing (But No Conditioning)
The hair is washed and dried—but not conditioned. Conditioner can interfere with the bonds used in extensions, weakening the connection. That stunning shine you see in virgin Russian hair? That’s 100% natural—no silicone or product involved.
Once clean, the hair is ready to be either single drawn or double drawn.
What Is Single Drawn Hair?
Single drawn hair extensions have had only the shortest hairs (usually the bottom 6 inches) removed.
How It’s Done
The root end of the ponytail is slapped repeatedly against a tool called a hackle—a wooden board with sharp metal nails. This removes the unusable short hairs.
While it may sound simple, it takes precision and focus. One wrong move on a hackle can cause serious injury.
Once the short hairs are removed, the ponytail is retied. The hair is now classified as single drawn.
What You Get
Single drawn hair extensions contain a mix of lengths, giving the hair a natural taper. They’re more affordable but offer less volume at the ends compared to double drawn hair.
What Is Double Drawn Hair?
You might think double drawn hair is just single drawn hair with an extra step—but it’s a completely different process.
The Double Drawing Process
- The root end of the ponytail is sandwiched between two dense brushes.
- A small knife is used to gently draw out the longest hairs, a few at a time, by the tips.
- These longest strands are trimmed to remove any split or damaged ends.
- The hair is then re-organised by length, always kept in the same direction to remain Remy hair (cuticles aligned).
- The process is repeated with the tip end secured, sorting the hair into 2-inch length categories—e.g., 20–22″, 18–20″, 16–18″, etc.
Why It’s Worth It
Double drawing is labour-intensive, time-consuming, and not the most exciting job. So why bother?
Because double drawn hair extensions deliver superior results:
- Thicker ends for a fuller look
- More uniform length throughout the weft
- Less need for layering or trimming
- Better blending, especially with blunt cuts
It’s especially ideal for clients who want volume and a polished finish.
Final Thoughts: Which Hair Type Is Right for You?
- Raw hair is unprocessed and in its most natural state.
- Single drawn offers a natural, tapered look with varying lengths.
- Double drawn gives you luxurious, thick ends and a fuller appearance.
If you’re looking for premium hair extensions in Manchester, NuTress specialises in Remy, double drawn, virgin Russian hair extensions that blend beautifully and last with the right care.
